Tuesday, July 10, 2012

What to buy in the Annecy Markets


I promised to show you the two markets that take place under our window every week - here's a view of the food market, which happens three times a week. Here we buy mostly local fruit and veg, cheese, sausage and so on - the local repas du jour is cheese, bread and sausage and it's a wonder people aren't grossly overweight with that kind of eating ... but in fact every one is lithe and fit. We fit right in, haha.


I snapped a pic of the market when it wasn't busy - by 11 a.m. or noon the streets are teeming with people and you can hardly move. I buy my fruit and veggies from a gent named Verdi and his two brothers. They usually throw in a few free peaches grown in the mountains - a nice perk. If you visit, you simply must buy the (cured, pork) sausage, or as the French say, les saucissons - I'm pluralizing as you can't just get one - they are too delish (and this coming from a gal who doesn't do a lot of meat). The more you buy, the cheaper the price gets (five Euros for one, 15 Euros for five) - and you can get every flavour. Our fave so far: the one with the mushrooms inside. You can also buy a large tub of seasoned olives of every kind (sweet or hot) for between 7-10 Euros, and it lasts for weeks.


The antique market, meanwhile, is the last Saturday of every month. It goes on from around 8 a.m. to 5 or 6p.m., so there's plenty of time to rummage. There's a little bit of everything, though I'd say the vintage clothing, accessories and jewellery pickings are sparse - perhaps a good thing for a lover of beautiful things like moi.


What jewellery there was, wasn't really my style - a bit old-fashioned.


But my eagle-eye landed upon this substantial 1970s gold-tone and faux turquoise necklace - for only eight Euros! A screaming deal for Annecy, my friends. And it just so happens to go with my blue-green dress that I bought in the old town (pictured below).


Plenty of cowbells here, folks (at least I think that's what they are). There's an annual festival in town in October that's called Retour des Alpages - part of an old tradition marking the return of the the cows (whose milk is used for cheese) from the mountains, where they've been grazing all summer. Apparently they parade the cows through the streets of the old town before they put them in their fall and winter digs inside, and there's a whole day's festivities associated with big event. Love it.


We're surrounded by the French Alps, so there's no shortage of skis, sleds and other rustic wooden implements and furniture. Another great local find are lakeside or mountain paintings, like the ones you see propped against the canal railing. I spied some beautiful tiny paintings of the lake, but some were as pricy as 150 Euro. I would love to have a work of art depicting local scenery in our place, but will hold out spending that kind of cash until we see one we both love and can't live without.


Another thing I saw a lot of: ornate tin boxes, most of them larger and more rustic looking than the one pictured above. I really loved this one (but didn't buy it as it was 40 Euros!) as it was so folky looking. Maybe next time.


This was the least rustic Alpine booth of all so I thought I'd show it to you: I call it the Mod corner.


We need a chair in our apartment - and wouldn't you know, I found this one right under my window! You know my penchant for green velvet upholstered furniture. (I left a chair and a loveseat on the sidewalk in Toronto when I moved, as I couldn't get any charity to pick them up, wah). This one was comfy, slightly worn (my preference, always), with a strong wooden frame. Price: 135 Euros, but we could have talked the guy down, I bet. Mon mari wasn't convinced that it would show beautifully in our lovely pad, but I know I'm right: let me work on him for three weeks until the next market. If it's still there, we wouldn't have to try too hard to get it into our apartment!


We did come home with this beaut of a rug, old, worn and featuring an almost Peacock blue that is rare in rugs of this kind. What started off as 50 Euros went down to 30 Euros the longer we stood there and hemmed and hawed (thought of course I knew it would work, and ultimately darling hubby deferred to my decor authority). And it does indeed look grand in our huge living room, and actually complements the one old Persian rug I did bring with me.


All in all, in spite of a few freaky-scary dolls, it was a fun day . The next market is July 28, and I'll be there!

33 comments:

  1. I loved doing the market with you! I'd be at that olive stall all the time, sampling the wares, you can't beat them, can you?
    Loved your faux turquoise pendant, that pretty box and all the stuff in the mod corner! The rug was a great find, the blue is much nicer than the red ones I see around, far more soothing for an ambient interior! x

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    1. A guy who sells these rugs in Canada told me the blue ones are rare (I'm sentimental as my family has a lovely large blue one) - then the sweetie pie GAVE me one rug that has blue in it. I agree, the blue is soothing. I like the red ones but they can make your temperature rise sometimes! xx

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  2. I join Vix, and let´s us all do the market together.
    It would be so much fun.
    You look so wonderful.
    XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

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    1. It's a date!! Come see me in Annecy! xoxo

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  3. Your new banner is great!! I'd have been very tempted for one of those ornate boxes. I bet you'll grab one one of these days. Nice score on the chair. I too love velvet furniture. Hope your settling well into your new city.

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    1. Joni, you may be seeing the future as I see that box, or something like it, in my new home! The chair isn't mine -- but if it's there on the next market day it could be mine!

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  4. What a wonderful market! Waaaay better than the grocery stores most of us are used to! That necklace is also fabulous! Hope you're enjoying your new place!!!
    --Vivienne

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    1. Thanks Vivienne, we're loving it, and I wore my new necklace the other day!

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  5. Hi Kelly!
    Nice to hear from you!
    You livein a beautiful place! Lucky you!
    I was in Annecy way back, but i still remember the lake, i am happy that its beauty wasn't spoiled
    How cool to have a market under your nose, must be noisy at time non?
    Funny to see a bit of french here and there in your post

    A la prochaine Kelly!

    Ariane xxx

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    1. Bonjour Ariane! Oui, je suis pratiquer mon Français beaucoup et aussi je pense en Français!

      K xoxo

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  6. I am actually aching with envy over that market. I'd be heading straight for the old shabby bric-a-brac, not so much on the mod corner. So maybe you can humour all of us from time to time with a bit of everything....my new life plan is to live vicariously through you! Hee hee

    Nan

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    1. Nan, the Mod corner wasn't really me either, I like worn bric-a-brac too! Will snap some more pics next time!

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  7. Beautiful rug. Your street is so teaming with life. I love that shop and stall atmosphere, which is so un-strip-mall-like or so unchain-like. How great to pick up fresh food steps from the door three days a week! I like your new banner too.

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    1. Thanks Melanie! I agree with you 100%, and it's just so refreshing to be away from vapid consumerism. But then again we are surrounded by souvenir shops etc - but the French don't seem capable of kitsch! :)

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  8. I'm afraid my taste run the same as yours and others -- green velvet chair, tin box and mod corner. I admire your bargaining skills. That rug is a beauty, especially for 30 euros. Well done!

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    1. I think we both enjoy a boho ethic, don't we?

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  9. I love this post--it's almost like walking through the market with you. And free peaches! I wish I could get a deal like that. It's a beautiful rug.

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    1. Thanks Terri, I'm happy the rug has found a new home and almost wish I could read the story of its past in its coloured threads! The peaches are divine, btw!

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  10. What a great place to live Kelly! The market looks wonderful - I actually like the little-old-lady jewellery pieces.

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    1. You know, Narda, it wasn't that I didn't like them - I love most bling, LOL! - but they weren't really ME, if you know what I mean. But yes, any bling is worth a peep, in my books!

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  11. What a great place to live Kelly! The market looks wonderful - I actually like the little-old-lady jewellery pieces.

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  12. Bonjour Kelly! You sound as though you are settling right in, and it's great to be shown around the market, merci! I would love all that going on outside my home, how fabulous.
    You can't beat fresh produce from market stalls, and a lunch of pain, fromage et saucisson sounds perfect to me! And some olives too... Et du vin!
    Love your pendant, and the rug you bought. Is the ornate box an example of Cloisonne? I think it's so pretty, I would love a piece like that.
    Keep us posted on whether you buy that chair, or similar. I'm glad your husband knows who's in charge when it comes to matters of style and decor! xxxx

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    1. Bonjour Curtise! You know, I am not sure, I didn't look too closely at the box (perhaps because I knew it would be mine if I did!) - I will have to check out that table next time and see if the box is still there, and verify its provenance and what it's made with!

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  13. ...I feel at home viewing your spectacular photos of your new home in Annecy. I spent my entire childhood in a similar village in Italy and boy oh boy it brought back alot of tender moment memories. As you describe the way the of life it makes me want to go back in time or maybe go back right here and now which is the present for GOOD. Enjoy it !!! ... I will be responding to your email some time this week. Miss you my dear pal Love ya <3 xoxo Cathy P.

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    1. Ah, my dear, so glad this tweaked a memory. Looking forward to hearing from you. xoxoxo

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  14. So fun to go to the market with you! I'm hyperventilating over your rug. I have a number of old, very worn persian rugs discovered at flea markets and thrift stores. I love them so, so much!! Your's is a beauty.

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    1. I know, Jean, I saw one of them in one of your recent blog posts - beautiful! For some reason I love these rugs old and worn. Hope you'll post some more pics of some of yours. :)

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  15. How jealous am I? I have loved French markets since I was a little girl, I would love bartering (mostly saying 'trop cher' and trying to look cute) and trying to pick up cute bargains. Are you loving it? The pendant is beautiful, and I love your other picks too x

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    2. We are SO loving it, Lakota - it's amazing how easy French life is (guess it helps when you're living here). We didn't try "trop cher" - we just looked at each other for ten minutes saying, "I don't know, do you like it, are you sure you like it?", and voila, 20 Euros discount!

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  16. Hi there!

    Just came across your pics by chance as I was looking up the days of the market for my parents who are in Annecy at the moment. My husband and I spent three months there last year with our little boy it's the best place on earth. We are now planning a longer stay hopefully for a year. How easy was it for you to find accommodation? Love looking at your photos I remember it well!!

    All the best Fiona

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    1. Hi Fiona!

      So great that you found me - I hope your parents are here for the antique market at the end of the month, but if not I'm sure they've made it to the food market. We love Annecy and have often pinched ourselves in the month that we've lived here as if to say to ourselves, "This is real!".

      How exciting that you are thinking of returning to Annecy! We found it VERY difficult to find a non-vacation rental here. The rental market at the moment is non-existent outside of the holiday market, especially in the Old Town where we were looking. Many of the real estate people we went into said they had absolutely no rentals - we were lucky, in the end, to find a charming apartment in the Old Town after pounding the streets for a few days. Since the rental vacation market is so bouyant, you may be able to find a longer-term rental that's a vacation rental. Buying is another question: in short, it's very expensive! If you have any other questions feel free to email me at grungequeen@yahoo.com.

      Best,
      Kelly

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    2. Thanks Kelly,

      Great to hear from you, will email from now on.

      Cheerio Fiona

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Thanks for commenting - you make my day! With bebe coming at the end of May, I'm sorry to say I won't be responding to each and every comment as I normally do - please know I will be posting when I can and reading all comments, and that I so value your readership. :)

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